Installing Ball’s Universal Power Window Kit In A 1955 F100

By Ron Ceridono   –   Images by the Author

While power windows are pretty much standard equipment in modern trucks, that hasn’t always been the case. General Motors was the first to offer them in Chevy and GMC pickups in 1977; they became available in Fords for 1984, but they weren’t on the Dodge option list until 1989. But for those who would like to raise and lower his/her classic truck’s windows by pushing a button rather than spinning a crank, Ball’s Power Windows makes it easy and affordable to add this contemporary feature.

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We used Ball’s flat glass power window kit that mounts the motor off to the side. It is available with a fixed window lift channel (on the left with three holes) that bolts to a pad on the drive cable; on the right is the optional floating channel.

There are several reasons to consider installing power windows. Certainly, there is ease of operation, plus the convenience of being able to roll down the passenger window from the driver seat without having to reach across the cab. Of course, it’s often an opportunity to get rid of a worn mechanical regulator that needs to be replaced anyway; and then there is the fact power windows in an early truck are cool.

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The Ball’s power window regulator is a “center lift” design that prevents the glass from rocking as it is raised or lowered.

While in the process of refurbishing his 1955 Ford F-100, Paul Willis decided to scrap the truck’s original 70-year-old mechanical window regulators and install a Ball’s Power Windows universal kit for flat glass. First used as original equipment on Mack trucks, these heavy-duty regulators are also used to operate the large privacy partition in limousines, to raise heavy bulletproof/resistant glass and even to raise and lower flat-screen televisions hidden in motorhome cabinets (which would also be the world’s coolest workbench feature in a shop/man cave).

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A powerful screw motor and stainless steel drive cable provides up to 75 pounds of lift with up to 21 inches of travel.

For simplicity and reliability Ball’s flat glass power window regulators have few moving parts. A vertical channel with a “glide pad” attaches to the glass, which is then moved up and down in the channel by a motor-driven cable—the operation is both smooth and quiet. Made in the USA, these regulators have been tested for over 100,000 cycles and they don’t have any of the plastic failure-prone components found in “off-shore” brands.

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When using the floating window channel use this plate with a pair of rollers. This design allows the glass to move and follow the profile of the window run channels.

Installing the new Ball’s power window kit regulator/motor assemblies was as simple as removing the original manual regulators, drilling a few holes, and bolting the motor and regulator assembly in place with no modifications to the doors required. Due to the compact design these kits fit inside narrow doors, and if necessary the riser channel may be shortened to fit as long as enough length is provided to open and close the window completely. In this case, no trimming was necessary.

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Here rollers are installed in the floating window lift channel. The roller bracket bolts to the pad on the lift channel.

Of course, adding power windows does require some wiring. Ball’s included a wiring pigtail with our kit and a variety of conventional switches are available, but we elected to go with a covert option, electric switches that look like a window crank. These switches can be wired individually, or with the addition of a push button the driver side switch can operate both windows. Ball’s also offers their express module (PN JW-530) that completely opens or closes the windows with one touch of the switch.

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With the rollers attached to the lift pad the lift channel simply slides in place. Note how the pad attaches to and slides on the channel.

Along with power window kits and accessories, a Ball’s subsidiary, Vintage Glass manufactures domestic windshields, side and back glass for pre-1980 cars and trucks. With over 25 years in the business, if Vintage Glass doesn’t have what you need, they can make it. All glass they produce is processed on a CNC machine and cut to NAG standards (National Auto Glass Specifications). For custom applications, customer-supplied patterns can be scanned and cut at no additional charge. All glass is then polished and tempered (except windshields, which are laminated). Vintage Glass also offers a wide range of one-piece door glass kits (call for specific applications).

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The large access hole in the F-100 doors makes it easy to install the regulator assembly. The vertical line drawn on the door indicates the centerline of the glass.

The descriptive reference to automotive glass being either laminated or tempered refers to the manufacturing process used to produce it. Laminated glass is made with two layers of glass with a sheet of plastic material (polyvinyl butyral) in-between and is primarily used for windshields. If a laminated windshield is broken, rather than shattering the broken pieces stick to the plastic layer to prevent injury from flying glass. During production tempered glass goes through a rapid heating and cooling process that strengthens it, making it tough enough to withstand reasonable impacts.  However, if tempered glass is broken the result is small, blunt pieces rather than sharp shards that can cause serious injury.

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Threaded rods were used to locate the motor and lift channel in line with the glass. With the location verified, tubing spacers and bolts will be installed.

If you’re planning to convert a classic truck from manual to power windows, and if precut replacement glass is needed as well, Ball’s Power Windows and Vintage Glass can provide everything needed—and they’re just a phone call away.

Check out this story in our digital edition here.

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Ball’s offers a variety of window switches, including the classic “paddle” style to control single or multiple window regulators.
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To maintain the original appearance we opted for these switches that mount the stock window cranks. They come with a variety of adapters to accept splined or square shank handles.
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The large hole is where the original manual window crank was located. The two smaller holes were attachment points for the regulator.
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Included with the new switches is a template to mark the location of the mounting screws.
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Here the new switch has been installed along with a stock-style reproduction window crank. The handle is moved up or down to control the motor—an internal stop limits the travel of the handle.
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The wires for the power window motors was routed through flexible wire conduit that moves in and out of the A-pillar as the door opens and closes. There is also room in the conduit for door-mounted speaker wiring.
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With the vent window in place, the division bar with the front window channel is placed inside the door but not attached.
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Pushing the division bar toward the front of the door allows the glass to be slipped inside the door.
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While holding the glass into the channel in the back of the door, the division bar is placed on the front edge of the window.
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A pair of suction cups and a cord over the top of the door held the glass while the division bar was secured to the door.
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With the division bar attached to the door, the top portion of the window channel can be put in place.
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The finished installation. When attaching the lift channel to the glass window tape may be used, however, butyl windshield sealer is recommended.

CTP 2601 POWERWIN Source Box

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