How to Lower Your Hot Rod

We Give This 1940 Ford Tudor a More Aggressive Stance

By “Rotten” Rodney Bauman – Photography By the Author

Every now and then, even old hot rodders come upon a car that we’d agree just shouldn’t be modified. Even so, we can’t help ourselves, can we?

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02 In front Speedway Motors PN 7022860 axle (4 inch drop) PN 9100439 spindles PN 7022756 steering arms and PN 91033324 2 inch spring shackles — In front, Speedway Motors PN 7022860 axle (4-inch drop), PN 9100439 spindles, PN 7022756 steering arms, and PN 91033324 2-inch spring shackles.

Out here in Northwestern Montana we’ve had the Ford Flathead V8 Museum to enjoy for many years. Its curator, Lyle Aklestad, is a knowledgeable hands-on restorer, preserver, and collector who’s kindly shared his passion with like minded Ford fans and curious passersby alike. Long story short, the Ford Flathead V8 Museum’s recent liquidation was an opportunity for buyers. If by chance you were already a friend of Aklestad’s, there were noteworthy bargains on tap.

03 In back Speedway Motors PN 5803740 rear spring (2½ inch drop) and PN 91033324 2¼ inch spring shackles — In back, Speedway Motors PN 5803740 rear spring (2½-inch drop) and PN 91033324 2¼-inch spring shackles.

Our subject 1940 Ford Tudor is an unrestored original, displaying only 46,000 miles on its odometer. New owner, Willie Steele, understands that it shouldn’t be modified. A subtle stance-enhancement, however, wouldn’t be an undoable deed to be frowned upon—perhaps not even by the purest of purists. Nowadays it can be done (or undone) for the most part by simply twisting nuts and bolts.

04 Paul Steele pulls a tapeline measurement from spindle center to wheel lip center — To begin, Paul Steele pulls a tapeline measurement from spindle center to wheel lip center. Since we’ll be changing tire sizes, this is better than measuring from the floor.

Old School Methods To Lower a Hot Rod

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For comparison’s sake, let’s rewind and review some earlier methods for lowering a fat-fendered, buggy-sprung Ford—like just removing spring leaves and/or heating ends of main leaves. The once-common practice of heating main leaves near the eyes would indeed lead to sagging as the torch would weaken spring steel to create unsightly kinks.

05 the original axle and spring perches are being rather stubborn — Having been together since 1940, the original axle and spring perches are being rather stubborn. The torch in Paul’s hand was his grandfather’s, too.v

Reversing main leaf eyes was an acceptable hot tip. Stretching the ends of an I-beam axle was, too, but not so much for the do-it-yourselfer. If you’re a grizzled hot rod veteran, you may recall shops that specialized in such jobs. You may also recall that from wishbone to kingpin a stretched axle would usually end up a little narrower than stock. That rarely caused a problem, but there’d also be tie rod interference at the wishbone, which would require tie rod modification, steering arm modification, or both.

06 With its bit right in the center dimple Paul uses the loosened castle nut to protect the perch’s threaded end — And so was this air hammer. With its bit right in the center dimple, Paul uses the loosened castle nut to protect the perch’s threaded end.

No matter which of the lowering methods we might’ve chosen back then, there would’ve been guesswork involved. It would’ve taken experience with a dash of keen instinct to predict the result. The one thing we could pretty much count on was that the job well-done would have an old Ford riding like a creeper.

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07 This old Ford Tudor axle wiggled right out past the original spring shackles — Quite obviously the torch and air hammer were helpful. This old Ford Tudor axle wiggled right out past the original spring shackles—no problem.

Modern Lowered Suspension Techniques

The process of lowering a fat-fendered, buggy-sprung Ford is simplified today. For the job at hand, we’ll simply order up the proper combination of brand-new parts—all from Speedway Motors. By doing so, that guesswork we’ve been talking about can be largely eliminated.

08 Before reassembly begins let’s compare steering arms — Before reassembly begins, let’s compare steering arms. On the new ones, notice the 3-¾-inch drop? That and their two-way tapers will be needed later.

Dropped Axle & Reverse Eye Leaf Spring

From Speedway Motors, the cast-steel I-beam has a 4-inch drop, so we know approximately where we’ll end up. Also from Speedway Motors, the reversed-eye rear spring with its 2-½-inch drop; we have an approximate idea of where we’ll end up there, too.

09 Although the old axle wiggled out easily the new dropped axle won’t just wiggle in — Although the old axle wiggled out easily, the new dropped axle won’t just wiggle in. The problem here is the original leaf spring shackles. They’re still good but they’ll have to go.

Drop Spindles

So, if we’re discussing springs and axles, we’d best address our steering arm differences. To accommodate our frontal 4-inch drop, our new Speedway Motors spindles have bolt-on arms with a 3-¾-inch drop built in. In addition, they feature a two-way taper so our tie rod can be installed high-or-low as necessary for wishbone clearance.

10 The first step for removal of original pressed leaf spring shackle bushings is to burn away their rubber parts — The first step for removal of original pressed leaf spring shackle bushings is to burn away their rubber parts. According to Paul, “This is the only way.”

Nylon-Bushed Leaf Spring Shackle Kit

As is often the case, the difficult part will be initial disassembly. The struggle you’ll witness will involve original spring shackles. They’re in good condition. We can remove the original axle without harming them, but the new dropped axle won’t clear to slip right in. By design, the original shackles won’t just fall apart for us. They’ll end up quite destroyed, but it’s OK. We’re planning to replace them with nylon-bushed shackles from Speedway Motors anyway.

11 With the shackle bushings’ steel sleeves now exposed this is another job for the air hammer — With the shackle bushings’ steel sleeves now exposed, this is another job for the air hammer. So far this is working. It takes some effort but three will come out this way.

Selecting Tires & Wheel Alignment For Lowered Cars

Doing most of the work here will be this old Ford’s new owner, Willie Steele. He’ll be assisted by his brother, Paul, who we’ll bring in as the ringer. Oh, what’s the name of that nationwide chain of tire stores? As the alignment guy out back, Paul worked there for 30 years. Throughout his career he’s done his share of dirty jobs. With a brand-new lift in Willie’s barn-based shop, this job shouldn’t be so bad.

12 For the one sleeve that refuses to budge out comes yet another grandfather tool — For the one sleeve that refuses to budge, out comes yet another grandfather tool. Willie Steele’s got himself a handful here, but he’s winning. v

Coming up shortly as we go, we’ll be sure to list Speedway Motors part numbers for the new front axle and rear spring, as well as other related componentry. Our thought here is to make this as easy as possible for you, should you desire to do the same job on your own.

13 Now that the old shackle bushings are out of our way the new axle assumes its intended position — Now that the old shackle bushings are out of our way, the new axle assumes its intended position—no problem.

While this old Ford Tudor is up on the lift look at its pristine underside! This may indeed be one of those cars that just shouldn’t be modified. Even so, we can’t help ourselves, can we?

14 The tricky part here is reconnecting to the original leaf spring — The tricky part here is reconnecting to the original leaf spring. Earlier this morning Willie fashioned this multi-purpose tool for supporting axles and reconnecting springs.

At this stage we’ve invested roughly 10 hours. Our drop job is pretty much done, apart from alignment and tires. By our own way of thinking, a 1940 Ford Tudor this original deserves bias-ply tires. We did consider whitewalls but that might be a bit fancy for a stripped-down Standard—especially since there’s no other white on the car.

15 For putting the needed squeeze on the second reconnection it’s working well — Is this a woodworker’s tool? For putting the needed squeeze on the second reconnection it’s working well.

The next step seemed obvious, so a call went out to Coker Tire for Firestone Classic black walls. We’ll stagger sizes, so in the end we’ll gain a bonus bit of rubber rake, which will further-enhance the new sneaky stance.

16 Our new Speedway Motors drop spindles came complete with a nut kit — Our new Speedway Motors drop spindles came complete with a nut kit. Here, according to Paul, “the original bearings are beautiful.” They and their seals are being reused.

Since we’ll retain this old Ford’s original 16-inch steelies, and since they’re riveted wheels, we’ve ordered up brand-new Hartford inner tubes, also from Coker Tire: PN 663500, Firestone Classic blackwall 650-16; PN 639750, Firestone Classic blackwall 550-16. Tube sizing, PN 85366, Hartford 550R16 and 700R16 tubes. MR