ITGMw
SUBSCRIPTIONtext
ProgressArrows
digital issues
ProgressArrows
online store
ProgressArrows
SUBSCRIPTIONtext
ITGMw
ACPnew header logo
CTP LOGOs
all cars

THE SPEEDWAY MOTORS 1968 C10 Build: Rust Repair, Bodywork, and Paint

By Joe McCollough   –   Images by Jessica Coleman & Andy Chaves

If you’ve been following along with our ’68 C10 project, you’ve seen us checking all the fun stuff off our to-do list. Blast, paint, and reassemble a chassis with cool stuff to lower the truck? Check. Build up a junkyard 5.3 with a cam swap and valvetrain components to make 430 hp on the dyno? Check. Now for the part we’ve been putting off: that rotten, dented, yellow spray-bombed cab and sheetmetal. Fortunately, we found everything we needed on the shelf at Speedway Motors to replace the mangled original parts with fresh, new sheetmetal. Then, with all the cutting, welding, and grinding complete, we hit up our friends at No Coast Custom and Rod Shop to help us get things lined up, straightened out, and painted in time for the 2023 SEMA Show.

02 Removal of rusty floor pan from 1968 Chevrolet C10 during restoration
While we’ve certainly seen worse, the original floor was going to need some work to replace the cab mount brackets and other areas that were thin or rusted through.

To get us started, Ben Vaneperen and the crew at No Coast helped us get the cab mounted on a rolling cart that would make it easy to move around the shop and allow us access to the floor, rockers, and cab corners. We elected to install a full floor that was complete from rocker to rocker, cab back to toeboard, and already had all the supports attached underneath. This may seem like a drastic move, but we can tell you that it made a huge difference in the quality of the finished product and the time it took to get there.

 

03 Primed and restored cab of a 1968 Chevrolet C10 post metalwork preparation
With the cab all braced up and the floor cut out, the cab was blasted and immediately coated with epoxy primer to protect it.

Knowing that the old floor was going to be removed, our first step was to brace the cab with square tubing to keep everything square while the surgery was underway. This step is very important to avoid huge alignment issues when everything starts going back together. Bracing in place, we got to work removing the old floor with a cutoff wheel, plasma cutter, and Sawzall. After one long night the floor was out, and Vaneperen’s shop was covered with 50 years’ accumulation of dirt, rust, and mice nests. From there it was off to the blaster then back to No Coast for a coat of epoxy primer to protect the bare metal. Finally, after a little wrestling to get the new floor into position and tacked in place, we found ourselves sitting on solid ground in our cab for the first time.

04 Close up of welded body panel during the restoration process of a 1968 Chevrolet C10
The lower door pillars are hidden but are often found to be rusty when the rocker panels are removed. We patched ours with replacement pieces with PNs 92636278 (LH) and 92636279 (RH) before moving onto the rockers.

Read More: LMC 1969 Chevy C10 Fleetside to Stepside Conversion

We spent some time building small pieces to replace rotten sections of the toeboard before fully welding the new floor in place. With that major milestone complete, we were ready to cut out our bracing and move on. Our next move would be to tackle the other area that’s famous for being rotten in these trucks: rockers and cab corners. But before we could start fitting the new metal, we needed to hang the doors to ensure we were attaching the new panels in the right place.

05 New cab floor pan installed in 1968 Chevrolet C10 restoration project
The Complete Floor Pan (PN 92637400) saved us a ton of time patching and repairing the original floor.

With the doors in place and aligned we chose to hit the rockers first. Our reproduction pieces fit with minimal tweaking and some hammer and dolly work. They were then held in place with Clecos but left loose while we fit the cab corners. Vaneperen showed us a neat trick to hold the new cab corner panels in place. Instead of just cutting a straight line and trying to clamp the replacement piece in place, Vaneperen instead created little tabs that can be held on with Clecos while positioning and tacking. The tabs are then zipped off with the cutoff wheel for final finishing. Pretty slick plus it saved the usual wrestling match with Vise-Grips and other clamps trying to hold the new metal.

06 Welding in progress underneath the 1968 Chevrolet C10 cab during restoration
Holes were punched in the rear flange on the floor in preparation for rosette welding to the cab’s back panel.

Our cab was really starting to shape up. The cab corners and rockers were fully welded and we cleaned up some small areas of rust on the firewall. We were starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel after fearing that the cutting and welding would never end, but what about the rest of the sheetmetal? If you recall, the original box for this truck had long since vanished and the original front fenders and hood were pretty mangled. We once again hit the shelves at Speedway Motors for new fenders, a hood, and everything we would need to assemble a new box.

Read More: Block Sanding Tips for First-Round Primer-Surfacer

07 1968 Chevrolet C10 cab and door panel installation metalwork and body shaping
With the new floor in place, we were ready to move onto the cab corners and rockers. But first we hung the doors so we were sure to get the new metal positioned properly.

After the long struggle to solidify the cab, it was a nice change of pace for us to spend a morning in the shop assembling a Fleetside short box from all-new components. We chose a steel bed floor, ’68-72 bedsides, new front panel, and a smooth tailgate. In just a few hours we were looking at a solid new box ready to bolt up. No cutting, welding, grinding, or straightening out 50 years’ worth of use and abuse.

08 Manual hammering and shaping during the cab restoration of a 1968 Chevrolet C10
Replacement sheetmetal will always take a little maneuvering in order to fit properly. Our rockers were no exception, but a little hammer and dolly work allowed them to drop right into place.

At this point, the chassis had been put together in our shop while the cab was being straightened out across town at No Coast. Before we started fine-tuning the bodywork, we figured we’d better do a quick mock-up to make sure there were no interference issues. If we’re being honest, we really just wanted an excuse to put it all together to get a glimpse of the finished product.

09 Sheet metal repair on lower cab corner of 1968 Chevrolet C10 in progress
Here’s a neat trick for holding patch panels in place. The small tabs allow Clecos to hold the panel for fitting and welding, then get carefully removed with a cutoff wheel once a few tacks are in place. This is especially handy in places where clamping is difficult.

Fortunately, everything fit just as it should. We also verified that the Speedway Motors steering column, brake booster, and master cylinder were going to work as intended. With a few more boxes checked, we took a few minutes to step back and take a look at our mostly complete C10 for the first time. There was still a long way to go but seeing a preview of the lowered and straightened hot rod pickup that we’d been daydreaming about for so long got us revved up to push across the finish line. We had committed to having the finished truck in the Speedway Motors booth at the 2023 SEMA Show, which meant we had about six months to wrap everything up.

Read More: LMC Truck’s Way to Secure a Tailgate

10 Metal panel on rear cab corner of 1968 Chevrolet C10 after restoration work
The finished cab corner and rocker are much better than the rusty, thin, original sheetmetal.

Time to head back to the body shop. Here’s where the guys at No Coast really helped us raise the bar. The reproduction sheetmetal fit well, and many of us would have been tempted to leave the panel gaps as they were. Vaneperen and the crew helped us take the fitment to the next level with plenty of tweaking, adjusting, and adding metal to the edges.

11 Interior of the 1968 Chevrolet C10 cab after floor restoration with primed surfaces
Our old cab is starting to shape up. Here you can see where some new pieces were fabricated where the new floor met the old toeboard.

It’s hard to sum up months of hard work into one paragraph. Bodywork is where many projects stall out, but thanks to the dedication of Vaneperen and the No Coast crew as well as a Speedway Motors team that was determined to see the project through, all those late nights and early mornings began to pay off. We’ve learned to look for little victories when you’re in the middle of a big job like this, and with each day that passed we were able to check a few more things off the list. The box was finished up first, then the cab as every wrinkle and low spot was filled and blocked.

12 Firewall of 1968 Chevrolet C10 undergoing sanding and prep for restoration
We filled the unnecessary holes in the firewall using a combination of patches that we made and handy 18-gauge plugs from a Speedway Motors shaved handle and smooth firewall kit (PN 9101203).

With just a few weeks to go before our SEMA deadline, it was finally time for paint. Though our truck was now nicer than we had ever imagined it would be, we still wanted to finish it in a way that would allow us to use it and abuse it out on the road as intended without being terrified of every rock and bug. We chose a two-stage gray pearl color that fit the vintage vibe of the truck with just a bit of a modern twist. The flat clear helped us avoid the trap of having something that was too nice to drive, and we also happen to love the way these trucks look with a satin finish on them. The top was painted white with gloss clear to add some contrast.

13 1968 Chevrolet C10 cab stripped down to bare metal prepped for further bodywork
It took a lot of time and a whole bunch of replacement sheetmetal, but our rusty and dented old cab was good as new again. Now time to tackle the rest of the truck.

We didn’t have much time to celebrate the completion of the paint- and bodywork. Our deadline was looming and we had a long way to go. That meant more late nights, more early mornings, and more tasks checked off the list. The Speedway Motors wiring harness and completion of the fuel system allowed us to start it for the first time. The interior started to come together with carpet, a cool-looking side-detent shifter, and a seat frame that would allow us to run bucket seats. It was all hands on deck to carefully hang the freshly painted sheetmetal and install the lights and brightwork.

14 Two workers handling a restored Chevrolet C10 truck bed floor panel
Our C10’s original box disappeared long before we got it, so we ordered up all the necessary pieces to build a brand-new Fleetside shortbed, starting with this steel Complete Bed Floor Panel (PN 92637268).

Did we make it? How did the truck come out? While you’ll have to stay tuned for next month’s installment to find out all the details, we will say that we’re absolutely in love with the end result and hope you will be, too!

15 Workers assembling a side bed panel on a 1968 Chevrolet C10
New bedsides, PNs 92636354 (LH) and 92636355 (RH), dropped right into place.
16 Restored bed of a 1968 Chevrolet C10 placed on stands after body panel installation
It only took us a few hours to fully assemble our brand-new box. Be sure to spec the proper front panel as they are different for a steel floor and a wood floor.
17 Nearly completed 1968 Chevrolet C10 with black body and redline tires awaiting final assembly
After hours upon hours of hard work, we were finally able to get a sneak preview of what the truck was going to look like. We hung the new front fenders, PNs 92632209 (LH) and 92632210 (RH), and were stoked to see our vision starting to come together.
18 1968 Chevrolet C10 nearing completion front end open for final mechanical adjustments
Here’s another view of our mocked-up pickup. At this point we were very tempted to throw in some glass and wiring and hit the road.
19 Door panel and fender sanding and bodywork on a 1968 Chevrolet C10 in progress
The replacement sheetmetal fit quite well, but back at No Coast Custom and Rod Shop, the crew helped us get the gaps and panel flow completely dialed.
20 Front end of 1968 Chevrolet C10 with bodywork completed ready for final paint preparation
More panel fit with the new hood (PN 92637273) in place. This can be a frustrating process, but getting every panel lined up is critical to everything that will follow.
21 Chevrolet C10 truck bed in primer ready for sanding and painting
Around back, the stake pockets were filled on the bedsides and bodywork was underway to further refine the shape of the new sheetmetal.
22 Front fender and body of 1968 Chevrolet C10 after bodywork and primer application
Metalwork done and time for primer and filler work.
23 Worker sanding rear tailgate of a 1968 Chevrolet C10 during restoration
Vaneperen starts filler work on the replacement smooth tailgate (PN 92637270) by blocking the epoxy primer to reveal the high and low spots.
24 1968 Chevrolet C10 with primed bed and body panels undergoing final checks before paint
Fill, sand, prime, repeat. Bodywork can be a tedious task but the No Coast crew made it look easy.
25 Full body of 1968 Chevrolet C10 masked and prepared for paint in primer coat
The final coat of polyester primer marked the first time our truck was all one color.
26 Rear quarter of 1968 Chevrolet C10 taped and prepped for paint detailing in the body shop
One final round of blocking with guidecoat. The tape helps keep the body lines crisp.
27 Painter applying base coat to the front cab of a 1968 Chevrolet C10 inside a spray booth
Time for paint! The gray pearl was a custom mix and contrasts nicely with the white top.
28 Freshly painted firewall and cab of 1968 Chevrolet C10 in the sunlight
We chose a satin clear for the gray and gloss on the top. We love the way satin paint looks on the body lines of these ’67-72 trucks. Gloss was chosen for the top for even more contrast.
29 1968 Chevrolet C10 in reassembly phase with engine installed and body components painted
Back in the Speedway Motors shop, we were under the gun to get everything ready in time for our SEMA deadline.
30 Interior wiring harness installed during the reassembly of 1968 Chevrolet C10 cab
A Speedway Motors 22-circuit wiring harness (PN 91064022) was chosen for our truck. These are universal fit, so we were able to mount it high inside the firewall and hide the wires behind the wheelwell.
31 Worker installing shifter inside the cab of a 1968 Chevrolet C10 during reassembly
A Speedway Motors Side Detent Shifter (PN 9165000) allowed us to use the cool ivory shift knob and Billet Shift Lever (PN 91603269).
32 Installing seat brackets in the interior of a 1968 Chevrolet C10 post reassembly
The Speedway Motors Seat and Console Mount (PN 91098213) would allow us to use some cool, retro-looking buckets along with an OE-style center console.
33 Fully restored 1968 Chevrolet C10 with hood open for final mechanical inspections
So close yet so far. This photo was taken very late at night with just a few hours before the truck was scheduled to be on the trailer for SEMA. Check back next month to find out if we made it!

Source
Speedway Motors
(800) 979-0122
speedwaymotors.com/pages/c10-build

Click on this issue’s cover to see the enhanced digital version of THE SPEEDWAY MOTORS 1968 C10 Build: Rust Repair, Bodywork, and Paint.

ctp september 2024

Related Articles

Search Our Site

More Classic Truck Performance

The John Lamb/Tin Man’s Garage Triton V10-Powered 1961 Ford Unibody

By Brian Limberg (Excerpts from his Build Book)    -  ...

Mike Schott’s 1992 Chevy Silverado

By Tim King   -   Images by the Author 1988 welcomed...

Bob Ford’s 1957 Chevy Task Force-Series Truck Turns up the Heat

By Chuck Vranas   -   Images by the Author Somewhere on...

Updating a 1971 Suburban With a Lokar Floor Shifter and Ididit Tilt Column

By Todd Ryden   -   Images by the Author After upgrading...

The Evolution of Pat Floyd’s 1969 Chevy C10

By Chuck Vranas   -   Images by the Author The alluring...

A Windsor Bottom End With Cleveland Cylinder Heads and Intake for the Ultimate Old-School Hybrid

By Jeff Huneycutt   -   Images by the Author We’re building...
More Classic Truck Performance

Paul Close’s Y-Block Powered 1956 F100 is Layered with Custom Cool

By Chuck Vranas   -   Images by the Author As the...

Old Anvil Speed Shop Increases Our 1948 Chevy’s Voltage With XS Power

By Rob Fortier   -   Photography by Taylor Kempkes For as...

Josh Bentley’s Vini’s Hot Rods 1983 Chevy Squarebody C10 With a Roadster Shop SPEC Chassis

By Rob Fortier   -   Images by NotStock Photography Back in...

The GM Tailgate Tour is a Five-Day Road Trip for Trucks

By Tommy Lee Byrd   -   Images by the Author Road...

Horton’s Hot Rod Shop’s Wicked Hemi-Powered 1969 Dodge D200 Parts Hauler

By Chuck Vranas   -   Photography by the Author Through the...

Classic Performance Products’ Bolt-In Suspension System for 1965-1979 Ford Trucks

By Ron Ceridono   -   Images By Jason Scudellari In 1948...