When Freestyle Motocross legend Jeremy “Twitch” Stenberg recently had the air management system on his ’66 C10 updated, we went for a test ride and the first words out of his mouth were, “It’s great, but the truck won’t stop for sh!t!” For someone who spends more time flying through the air upside down, I figured that wasn’t going to be a big deal for him. Or so I thought …
Upon further investigation, it seemed like his truck had decent brake components, but sure enough the pedal would go to the floor while doing little, if anything, to bring things to a complete halt. So, instead of trying to diagnose exactly what was and wasn’t working properly, we had him bring the C10 into the ITGM Tech Center for a complete brake upgrade front to rear, including a hydraulic assist system.
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Jason Scudellari (ITGM Tech Center manager) and Twitch discussing the “lack” of braking performance experienced during the initial test of Twitch’s ’66 C10 … and what he expects from the full Classic Performance Products brake system upgrade Scudellari just completed. (FYI, to see Twitch’s real-time reaction, scan the QR code in the article and check out the YouTube video!)
Whatever master/booster and later model front disc brakes had been used—we still don’t know for sure—they’re all in the recycling bin now. We simply put in a call to Classic Performance Products and ordered their full Big Brake kit—not only for the front but to replace the old oil-soaked drums out back as well. While on the phone, we were given an option as to what means of boost we had to choose from: traditional vacuum, which the ’66 currently had, or upgrade to CPP’s hydraulic-assist HydraStop system.
That “full” complement of components from Classic Performance Products include their tried-and-true 12-inch front and 11-inch rear Big Brake kits, a pair of 2-inch dropped spindles, and their Street Beast edition HydraStop hydraulic-assist system.
Just as it implies, a vacuum-boosted brake system relies on your engine’s available vacuum to assist in the manipulation of the calipers, resulting in a softer-feeling pedal yet multiplying the amount of applied pressure versus a non-boosted system that offers a very stiff pedal. The key word is “available;” some engines (especially with added induction boost) do not provide enough vacuum pressure to sufficiently boost a brake system. This is where the HydraStop comes into play.
Even though Twitch’s truck was already equipped with dropped spindles, we didn’t want to take any chances with worn-out bearing surfaces or sloppy steering arms, so a set of CPP’s brand-new spindles were added to the order.
As CPP told us: “When all else fails, the HyrdaStop will save the day. With a HyrdraStop you’ll be able to just relax and enjoy the ride; no more looking way ahead for fear you won’t be able to stop! Confidence and comfort all in one.”
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As mentioned in the story, Classic Performance Products asked if we wanted to stick with the standard vacuum boost master cylinder or upgrade to their HydraStop—after weighing the options, not to mention coming to the conclusion that the existing master/booster were partly to blame for the poor brakes, the Street Beast HydraStop was the obvious choice.
Instead of vacuum pressure, CPP’s HydraStop uses hydraulic pressure from the vehicle’s power steering system. That, ultimately, offers substantially more constant pressure (typically double the PSI or more) than a traditional vacuum boost—with a more positive-feeling (not squishy) pedal.
Typically, this standard fare disc/drum should be sufficient for normal braking performance … but when you factor in an LS drivetrain, large-diameter wheels, and the person behind the wheel, well, even at their best these components would definitely leave a lot to be desired, especially for an aggressive driver as such.
Without getting deep into all the technical specifics of a hydraulic-assist brake master, let’s just say that Twitch was all in, so we added CPP’s Street Beast hydraulic-assist kit for the ’63-66 C10 to accompany the 13-inch front/forged dropped spindle and 12-inch rear Big Brake kits (which will go a long way toward helping bring the larger-diameter wheels to a stop) and set a date for an “out with the old, in with the brand-new” procedure!
We’ll spare you the step-by-step parts removal process but will take this opportunity to point out the importance of not only inspecting any reusable components (tie rods, brake lines, and so on) but replacing anything that appears worn or questionable while you have everything apart.With the old brakes out of the way and existing ball joints in good working order, the new spindles were the first of the new items to be installed. Even though it wasn’t part of the job, Scudellari inspected the front airbags closely, checking for any excessive wear that would be hard to spot otherwise. They were good to go.
When installing the wheel studs, use the rotors (clamped with soft jaws in a vise) as a fixture to aid in torquing them down properly; as for greasing the wheel bearings, you can either do it by hand or use a grease packing tool … the mess is up to you!
Once the hub is mounted onto the spindle, the remainder of the Big Brake install is super straightforward: attach and torque the caliper brackets on the backside of the spindle, slide the rotor on (with correct directional orientation), and secure with a lug nut or two …
… then, with the supplied friction (brake pads) installed, mount the caliper exactly as Classic Performance Products’ detailed instructions illustrate.We noticed some moisture on the back side of the drum brake backing plates, which indicated axle seal leakage—which was definitely a contributor to poor rear braking performance as evidenced by the oil-glazed shoes.SOP (standard operating procedure) with a GM 10/12-bolt rearend: popping the differential cover to access the C-clips in order to remove the axles so you can remove the backing plates! That said, you’ll want to supply yourself not only with the necessary gaskets/sealant, but also axle seals and enough gear oil to top off the rear end once you’re done.With the housing all cleaned up and new seals pressed, the freshly prepped axles were reinstalled and the 12-bolt buttoned back up. (Note: It is possible to avoid all the rear end R&R by simply cutting the backing plates off. However, it makes total sense to ensure your gears, seals, and fluids are all good, and there’s no better time than now to do that!)As with the front, the rear brake installation is fairly simple: Set and secure your rotors in place, then set and shim your caliper brackets to align (center) the new calipers on the rotor.
Next, install and route the new parking brake cables through the frame, cut to length, and install/adjust on the calipers. (If your truck was not previously using the parking brake that doesn’t mean it’s OK to keep it eliminated—your rear brake performance actually depends on a properly adjusted parking brake!)
All four wheels successfully upgraded with new CPP brakes. Now onto the control system, i.e., the high-performance master cylinder!Before removing the vacuum-boosted master, Scudellari disconnected (and measured) the pedal linkage/pushrod inside the cab of Twitch’s truck.That measurement was transferred to the adjustable pushrod on CPP’s preassembled Street Beast HydraStop before it was installed onto the firewall and then reconnected with the brake pedal.
With the assistance of CPP’s engineer/HydraStop guru Danny Nix, Scudellari plumbed the hydraulic-assist unit into the power steering system with the supplied hose kit. This is a really important part of the install, as an improperly plumbed HydraStop can have severely adverse effects—on the unit and the power steering. Again, CPP’s provided instructions should be followed to the T, no pun intended!
Lastly, Scudellari kept with the plumbing motivation and ran all-new hard lines from the unit to the front and rear brakes, followed by a thorough bleed and test of the new HydraStop before throwing the wheels back on and giving the green light to come get his truck out of our shop!Twitch and Scudellari moments before the maiden voyage with the fresh new brake system on the old Chevy C10. Want to see how it all turned out? Like we said, scan that QR and give the video footage a looksee! Let’s just say, the only pedal that still goes to the floor is the fly-by-wire throttle!
