Is It Better To Repair Or Replace A Fender?

2nd series 1955 Chevy Truck Part 1: A Time-is-Money Comparison

By “Rotten” Rodney Bauman – Photography by the Author

Sure, we can salvage an original fender, but just because it’s possible doesn’t mean it’s practical. For our ongoing 2nd series 1955 Chevy truck project we’d decided early on to salvage as much of the truck’s original sheet metal as possible. In theory, that still sounds pretty good. In retrospect, however, we should’ve focused harder on practicality.

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01 2nd series 1955 Chevy Truck Part 1 A Time is Money Comparison — So, here’s our starting point: one used-original fender, abrasive-blasted with roughed-out metalwork pretty much done, and one new-reproduction fender from Brothers Truck Parts.

As a crash-damage estimator I’ll admit I’m hit ’n’ miss. After all these (roughly 46) years in the panel-pounding profession, I still have that tendency to underestimate metalworking, as well as filler working, times. Now with embarrassing hours invested, I’ve done it again. I’ve worked way too hard on this truck’s original right front fender.

02 We like to keep a fleet of portable work stands ready at all times — We like to keep a fleet of portable work stands ready at all times. From Summit Racing, this one’s close to 20 years old. Accessory ballast and pool toy padding not included.

Over on the other side (the driver side) we’ve abandoned the original front fender and door in favor of reproduction panels from Brothers Truck Parts. At the time of our purchase the brand-new fender was just under $500. Even though shipping (to Montana in our case) might’ve cost about as much, it might’ve still been the better deal.

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03 Earlier on the task force truck this fenders metalwork was addressed — Earlier on the task force truck, this fender’s metalwork was addressed. The dented eyebrow’s B-side, however, was difficult to access. Here on the ’stand we’ll get a handle dolly on it.

Since our project truck will be running both new-reproduction and used-original fenders, we have an opportunity to compare cost, quality, and perhaps, most importantly, that practicality we’ve been talking about.

04 our Chevy task forces original fender sports some cracks — In addition to its wrinkles, crinkles, lumps, and bumps, our Chevy task force’s original fender sports some cracks. There’s one side-to-side difference right there.

While we’ve been working on other panels (cab, hood, inner fenders) we thought our front fenders were stored safely enough against the body stall wall. The used fender has already been abrasive-blasted and, for the most part, roughed-out metal work was done during mockup when the truck’s front group was last screwed together.

05 The used original fender has a seam here above the headlamp — The used-original fender has a seam here above the headlamp at just about 2 o’clock. The new-reproduction fender does not.

At the time of this typewriting one dent remains in the used fender’s eyebrow. With that fender secured to a portable work stand, we can access the dent’s backside more easily now.

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So, from the big brown corrugated-cardboard box, is our new-reproduction fender ready for the paint department? By this shop’s standards, no, but it’s seeming to be close.

06 The new reproduction fender has a seam here beside the headlamp — The new-reproduction fender has a seam here beside the headlamp at just about 3 o’clock. The used-original fender does not.

On the truck, the new-reproduction fender has already been test-aligned with new and used adjacent panels. With minimal modification, the reproduction fender’s rearward edge matches the reproduction door’s forward edge just fine. Our original hood was crash damaged anyway, so we’ve done the work to make it fit in with its surroundings.

07 By our own measurements the original fenders skin is 18 gauge steel — By our own measurements, the original fender’s skin is 18-gauge steel. The reproduction reads closer to 19-gauge—so let’s ease up a little with our hammer smacks from here.

Perhaps like you, we hear other builders’ complaints regarding reproduction panel fitment. We’re always open-minded and willing to listen to those who’ve fought those types of battles. All we can tell you here is, to this point, on this job, we’re not having their exact same difficulties. Even so, let’s leave a little room for surprises.

08 Here however on the new reproduction fender we see some sort of splatter — Apart from surgically clean polyester dust everywhere, our body stall is an operating room. Here, however, on the new-reproduction fender, we see some sort of splatter.

Soon you’ll see it anyway, so I might as well fess up to a little boo-boo—something that occurred months ago during our panel-alignment marathon. Back when we were going for gaps, the brand-new fender’s upper-rearward edge seemed low where it met the beltline edge of the door. Plopped atop the cowl a single body shim made the needed difference, but not before I’d hastily employed a Keysco leverage bar. If by chance you’re unfamiliar, that’s an age-old body shop tool—and it’s ordinarily my friend!

09 Somehow our abrasive blasted original fender is also affected by mysterious splatter — Somehow, our abrasive-blasted original fender is also affected by mysterious splatter. In this instance it’s become scale rust, which won’t clean up so easily.

Not to distract too much from my own personal goofs, but do you ever get the feeling you’ve been somewhere before? Somehow it seems as though we’ve touched on the necessary fillerworking subject here—not so long ago. This time, rather than expounding deep technical details, let’s just focus on the aforementioned practicality. New versus old—let’s consider this a time-is-money comparison.

10 Out the back door of the body stall is T bones egress — Out the back door of the body stall is T-bone’s egress. When he reenters from his romp he’ll be slinging’ slobber in a side-to-side stride. Now we understand.

11 Since abrasive blasting left this fender rather porous a flat DA pad may not reach deep enough into problem spots — For starters, it’s 80-grit on a DA (dual-action) sander. Since abrasive-blasting left this fender rather porous, a flat DA pad may not reach deep enough into problem spots.

12 Near spent 3M Clean Strip Discs on Harbor Freight die grinders are doing the trick — Near-spent 3M Clean & Strip Discs on Harbor Freight die grinders are doing the trick. If this wasn’t working, we’d be on our way back to the blaster—again.

13 the original fender is ready for first round primer surfacer — Way too many (45.25) hours’ worth of filler working later, the original fender is ready for first-round primer-surfacer. We won’t be charging accordingly. That wouldn’t be fair.

E-Coat Quandary

Back in the ’70s, as painter’s helper at my first real job, the head painter there said this for the black coating that came on new OEM body panels: “That’s good primer! You can scuff ’n’ paint right over it.” A few years later, at another shop, I was retrained differently: “Unless we start from bare metal, there’s no guarantee.”

14 Using lacquer thinner or in this instance Montana compliant gun wash solvent on paper toweling — Using lacquer thinner, or in this instance Montana-compliant ’gun wash solvent on paper toweling, let’s see if we can reflow the new fender’s E-coat.

Like new OEM body panels, our new Brothers reproduction fender arrived with an E-coat or, if you prefer, an EDP (Electro Deposit Primer) coating. We think that description is a little vague as the terminology doesn’t state what the coating is actually composed of. If by chance it’s thermoplastic (lacquer-like by nature) it should be removed. To determine our E-coat’s substrate suitability there’s an easy test. As we turn our attention to the new fender, let’s begin with a little demonstration.