By Rob Fortier – Photography by the Author
When initially purchased, our 1969 C10 seemed, for all intents and purposes, as if all it needed to become roadworthy was tightening up a few nuts and bolts here and there. Well, that couldn’t have been further from the truth. We show you how to update your 1967-1972 Chevy 1/2-Ton truck’s front suspension, correctly!
Upon attempting to tighten said nuts and bolts, we discovered a myriad (plethora, abundance, multitude—you pick your adjective!) of problematic issues: from severely compromised motor mounts (trimmed beyond reason for header clearance) to an airbag-equipped/hacked OE suspension that we’d planned on converting to a static drop coilovers configuration from the onset.
While we’ve already addressed the rear accordingly with the Strange Engineering bolt-in 9-inch and Classic Performance Products (CPP) Totally Tubular c10 trailing arms setup, the frontend had us puzzled, with the wheels being 2 inches further back in the wheelwell than they should be.
Check out: Suspension Upgrade: Installing a Swaybar on a ‘72 Chevy C10
After tossing around a number of possible options to remedy the front suspension situation—including completely swapping out the front crossmember and utilizing a whole new suspension setup—what we initially assumed was an issue with said stock crossmember placement turned out to be the simplest problem to cure: the upper control arms were on backward!
That realization led us right back to our first option of upgrading the front suspension using CPP’s Totally Tubular coilover conversion kit upper and lower control arms … with the correct upper control arm placement, of course!
If you’re not familiar with CPP’s 1967-up C10 front coilover conversion kit, let’s take a minute to fill you in. First off, it’s the only of its kind on the market that retains the factory crossmember that provides the user with an “inboard” coilover—one with a full-travel shock absorber rather than an extremely compromised short-throw damper.
To accomplish this, not only does the riveted factory upper control arm mount require removal, the upper coil hat portion of the underlying crossmember (beneath where the old control arm mount was riveted) must be relieved of 4-1/2 inches in diameter for the new coilover kit. Typically, this can be achieved with a bi-metal holesaw of that size, however the use of a decent-powered plasma cutter (as we will show) greatly eases and speeds up the process.
Check Out: Borgeson C10 Quick Ratio Steering Box Upgrade
To address the worn-out factory steering components, we once again relied on CPP—this time for their 500 Series power steering box and complete steering linkage kit. Leading up into the cab, we’ll be using a non-shift tilt flaming river steering column along with their repop Corvette-style flat three-spoke steering wheel. Since the front suspension portion of this rehab treatment is rather lengthy and involved, we’re going to save that for next month so as not to skimp out on any important aspects! For now, let’s get this 1969 C10 back down on all fours appropriately!
Sources
Classic Performance Products
(800) 522-5004
classicperform.com
Flaming River
(800) 719-1826
flamingriver.com
Jimenez Bros. Air Ride & Rod Shop
(951) 343-5948
jimenezbrosairrideandrodshop.com